Diana Elizabeth

Diana Elizabeth

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Breaking into the modeling industry

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May 2013 issue of PHOENIX magazine

I often get asked by parents about how to get started in the modeling or acting industry because their young children or teen has shown interest.  After last week’s chat with a mom I figured I would write a post on how to find a modeling or acting agent.  I’m going to be straight to the point and totally honest with my 12+ years of being in the industry.

Thing to Know about Finding a Modeling Agent

  • There are different types of businesses – modeling agencies, and modeling schools.  And somewhere in between there are cruises where agents are invited to go (they are paid a lot to attend, so they oblige) to a model search – like the ones who claim famous people like Ashton Kutcher got discovered.  These are all different businesses – not fraudulent, but just a business.
  • Models have agents.  The agent of the modeling agency (in my case Exclusive Model Management) finds jobs, and gets a commission.  Typically it is 20%.  It can be less if you live in LA and you are a SAG actor.
  • There might be a listing fee – they can be $100 every six months to be on the website database or $120 a year. It varies. I dislike that very much but it’s the nature now. Some agencies will bill you yearly or they will take it out of your paycheck when you get a job – which to me is better so it shows they will get you work.
  • Some agencies will print your headshots too for a small fee to stay consistent with their branding at auditions and such.
  • You don’t need a manager unless you are some super famous person or you need a career counselor.   They too take a cut and manage you if you have several agencies.  I’m not familiar with this route, but I’ll tell you that if you are reading my blog figuring out how to get started, you probably don’t need one right now.
  • A casting director doesn’t sign you – they work with a company and then contacts the agencies to tell who to send.  They then pick who is cast in the commercials.
  • A modeling school doesn’t get you work – they teach you how to model and walk and possibly diet.
  • A catwalk with a hefty entrance fee doesn’t get you work either – your fee pays for exposure to a culled group of agencies around the world.  Good yes, but you can also get in front of them for free – just attend an open call or submit online.
  • There are height requirements, but they really are preferences.  In certain markets you can get away with not being 5’8″ or 5’9″.  I’m 5’8″ which is tall for an Asian.  I have friends who are 5’6″ and signed and as long as they look proportionate they can work in print – we’re not in NYC and not doing runway.  You could also consider acting instead of print too.  So I’m just saying, don’t let height discourage you unless you are in LA or NY and you are trying to sign with the biggest agency that also reps Giselle.
  • It doesn’t cost anything to sign with an agency.  Anything that requires money means they are offering you a different service – classes on how to walk, a fee for the cruise, so on.  The only thing an agency will do is present you with a contract if they want to sign you and see if you have an acceptable headshot to market you.  You may need to invest $150-$700 on a new modeling shoot if you don’t have good shots.
  • Take acting classes to get better at acting or hosting.  I don’t think modeling classes are necessary as some agencies provide modeling workshops (for free) for their own signed talent.
  • In some states, like Arizona, you can only sign with one agent.  In California, you can sign with multiple agencies in different counties – so LA County, Orange County, etc.  The only issue is you would have to drive to all the auditions, so if you’re cool, then fine.  Otherwise, one might be enough.
  • You can sign in multiple states – I know models who have agencies in FL, CO, CA, AZ and so on.  Again, you must be willing to travel and perhaps even spend months at a time in those markets.
  • There are a zillion reasons why you don’t get signed – you can be too tall, too pretty, too thin,  the list goes on – there’s nothing you can do but keep going and find an agency who embraces your look, or try later when you grow into yourself.
  • Commercial acting pays more than a print ad – unless it’s for Nike or a crazy huge campaign it might be equal.

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How to find a modeling or acting agent

  • You can go to the SAG/AFTRA site and look under “locals” and they list agencies under “Local AFTRA Franchised Agents”.  Not all agencies are SAG licensed – typically ones that have an acting board.  Or just click here.  If they are with the SAG/AFTRA union, it means they are required to follow guidelines.  This doesn’t mean that if they don’t have it they aren’t legit – they may focus more on print modeling which doesn’t require that license.
  • Look up the agency’s website and look for their submission/open call information.
  • When you go to an open call, don’t wear too much makeup.  Agents know what you look like under all that makeup or if you’re wearing too much.  You’re still going to have to take off your heels so you don’t need stacked towering heels.  Natural is pretty, consider skinny jeans, black tank, you’re fine.  If you are auditioning for acting, you will be asked to read.
  • If you hear a no, go to the next agency, no big deal! Sometimes you look like someone they already have signed so they are full, don’t take it personally.  You can always go back again.

What are good acting or modeling headshots

  • You usually need some test shots already like a solid headshot for acting or any modeling shots. I am a photographer so you can contact me for pricing, I have photographed many actors and models in the Phoenix valley. Check out my work at www.dianaelizabeth.com.

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My modeling story

  • My mother was a professional model and singer overseas.  As most normal teens, I wanted to be like my mom.  The only opportunities I found were ones that were advertised on the radio that required money and were big searches in Florida that cost thousands of dollars.  My parents said no.  I was crushed – but this was a good thing because that route would have been a dead end.
  • In college I had a free modeling shoot and decided to look up some agencies.  I thankfully found a legitimate one, and signed with one in Phoenix – a two hour drive from Tucson.  I had no acting experience and she told me she was signing me for my face, not my resume (because it honestly was pretty pathetic).  I worked quite a bit, landed a few national gigs, and it was good extra money while I was in college.
  • I moved to LA post college and looked for a new agency.  I got a TON of no’s.  Mainly, “We have a girl that already looks like you,” which was one of the most aggravating things to hear because you assume everyone else thinks all Asians look alike.  I finally signed with KSR, formerly Kazarian/Spencer and Associates but only the print side, it was too competitive to get in on the acting/hosting side which was not fun for me.  They were a huge agency and I went to a ton of print auditions but the truth was, there were a million girls that really did look like me in LA and I was busier in Phoenix.
  • I stayed with my agency in Phoenix, continued to book and drove back to AZ for work.
  • I moved to Phoenix two years after living in LA and after 10 years with my first agent, I moved to FORD/Robert Black Agency because I had many friends signed with them and wanted to not only continue acting, but also go into print modeling.  I did love my other agency but it was nothing personal, just wanted to see what else I could do.  I have been signed with most all the agencies in the valley over time just looking to see which agency works best for the time of my life.
  • I don’t do it full-time (even though I have the time), because quite honestly there isn’t enough work to do it full-time – as an Asian model anyway.  Phoenix is still predominately Caucasian and the best role are the girls who look white, maybe Hispanic, maybe Italian, this is called “racially ambiguous” and if you fit that, you can probably do incredibly well!

Arizona agencies

I will put an asterisk sign by the agencies I have been signed with.

If you have any questions, please ask in the comments below, I’ll try my best to respond.

Arizona acting headshot photographer

*This post was originally posted on Aug 25, 2014 and updated and revised on May 5, 2020.

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There are 39 comments on Breaking into the modeling industry.

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  2. george says

    Thanks for all the info on what to do! We are currently looking for a agent for our daughter. We have sent many submissions within the last week and have had 2 that want to sign her ( The Young Agency, and Dani’s ) still waiting on hopefully more replies back. She wants to do print and act for now. My question to you is -How do you know if a agency is the right one?

    Reply

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      Hi George, that’s great. I think what you need to do is ask other actors in the industry what their opinions are with reputation and see where their current actors/models appear. You will know if it’s the right one by chemistry – ask them questions, see if you get along with them. I used to be with Dani’s, she’s fantastic! Best of luck, Diana

  3. George says

    Hi Diana,

    It’s George again. These last two weeks we have had many interviews and several offers for Alexi. Our next interview is this wednesday with the debroah Maddox agency . All have recommended that she needs to take a acting class ( which we knew already). Some have recommended to redo her headshot to Be more of a a natural headshot ( ie less makeup).All the other body shot pictures they liked. So we just need to redo her headshot. My question to you is – Do you recommend any photographer or acting coach in your area? We have been looking but I was hoping you could point us to someone you would recommend. I can send you a picture if you like. We currently live in Casa Grande and Any help would be appreciated.

    George

    Reply

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      Hi George,

      Acting class – Dearing Acting Studio is great, they have 4 week classes, an individual coach isn’t necessary. I would wait on the headshot until she signs so the agency can say who they prefer. You just need to see if she’ll be signed with print or acting and those are different shots. You also need to figure out what is holding her back from being signed and proceed with those steps first.

      As for photographers, I shoot headshots so if and when you are ready you can shoot me an email and I can give you a price.

      Good luck!

  4. George says

    Diana,

    Thanks for all the info. We are going to call Dearing acting studio today. As for the head shots -Could you please give me a quote? And what days you are available?

    thanks,

    George

    Reply

  5. Natalie says

    I just stumbled on your page!! I wanted to ask you if you happen to know if by law in the state of California that you are only allowed one print agent

    Reply

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      Hi Natalie, in the state of California you can only have one agent (commercial or print) per county. So you can have another print agent in a different county like LA County and one in Orange County. You can be signed with a print agent in Orange County and get an acting agent in Orange County as long as they are different boards. You should of course ask when you sign but make it aware who you are already signed with – this helps with agencies wanting to work with you (if you are already signed elsewhere but in a noncompete). Hope that helps. It’s been a longtime since I had an agent in CA or lived there but those were the rules at the time.

  6. George says

    Diana,

    Thanks for asking.

    The last interview she did- Did not go well. She read the script too fast and when they asked her a question – She was not firm nor confident in her answer to them. They like her photos – They Took body measurements, And on a couple of pictures they talked amongst themselves on the potential they saw. They gave an honest critique of her performance and I don’t think my daughter liked that too much. After that she said she did not want to do any more interviews. We are still working on her to still pursuit this? Send me a email address and I will show you a pic of her last shoot with her photographer .

    George

    Reply

  7. candy says

    Hey Diana
    Thanks for all the info on what to do!
    I have tried different agency’s in the past for my daughter all they do is take my money and I never got a call back. for example one source talent and john casablancas and highlight modeling agency I have been trying every since she was 4 years old she is now 14 yeas old. I am asking you for help to find a good modeling and acting agency I currently live in Delaware. thank you and hope to hear from you soon.

    Reply

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      Hi Candy, I would look at SAG/AFTRA site and look for one that is listed under them depending on location. Then ask around – usually when you are denied by a legit agency, at least in LA, they give you a slip with other legit agency’s names. John Casablancas and Barbizon are different types of businesses, just look for an agency where you don’t need to pay anything to sign. Good luck.

  9. stella says

    hi Diana my name is stella I’m 22 years old I’m a singer actress and model…I was wonder with the SAG/AFTGA do I call all the agency ive foun on the web? and ask to come in with my portfolio? or call and ask if they have open audition?

    Reply

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      Hi Stella, you should visit their website and see their instructions for submissions. They usually say how they prefer to be contacted – show up at an open call or email your information first. Good luck!

  10. Stella says

    I did follow up with the web you’ve had upload …and I got an open call audition on Monday will definitely keep in contact to let you k iw how it all went thank you soon much you have being a great help

    Reply

  11. Micah Brown says

    Hi Diana, I am an aspiring modeling and actress and I am looking into the Robert Ford Black Agency. I already got my pictures taken from a photographer that works for a different agency but i know Robert Ford Black refers models to their photographer for about $500, would I be able to just use the picture I already have instead of paying the 500?

    Reply

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      Hi Micah, it will depend on the agency you sign with if they can use the images you just took. The good news is the photos might be the ones that get you into the agency but it’s up to the agency to decide if they need more looks from you. Usually you do not have to pay an additional photographer until you are are accepted by the agency so don’t worry about it until they sign you on as talent, then you might have to get the additional shoot. But otherwise, the shot you already have will be just fine for a submission or walk-in. Good luck! xx Diana

  12. Yadira says

    Hi Diana,
    I am 16 years old and would love to model. I have done one fashion show with the Young Agency, but am not signed with any agency. I would like to be signed with one, but every agency asks for photos, which my parents aren’t willing to pay a massive amount for. Any suggestions? Thank you!

    Reply

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      Hi Yadira, you do need some good photos. Or maybe ask a friend or a hobbyist who needs to start for their portfolio so you can at least submit. Once you sign though, you will need to spend around $400+ for a new portfolio book. And you will also need to go to auditions during the day so you’ll need your parents support to sign you out of classes and drive to auditions, so make sure you talk to them to see if this is the right time in your stage of life to pursue. I started in college. Good luck!

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      One more thing – some agencies have a fee to be listed on their site. It’s around $120 or so every 6 months. Just something else to consider. Not all, but some.

  14. Keoria says

    i am 20 years old and i am struggling to start my modeling career and o dont really have much money to pay for any photo shoots this is my last hope of starting my career i dont know what else to do i hope you can help and give me some advice.

    Reply

  17. Emilia says

    How do open calls work for Ford Robert Black on the acting end? Do you prepare a monologue or do they give you a cold read? How difficult was it to get signed with them?
    PS. This post was incredibly helpful! Thanks!

    Reply

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      Hi Emilia! When I went in I already had 10 years of acting experience w another agency and a friend of mine already asked if they would take me (without me knowing) and told me. I went in and they gave me a script for a cold read. It was easy for me but it doesn’t mean it is easy for everyone. It depends on what their boards look like but I do know of people who have applied several years hearing no and finally had a yes and are busy. This goes for all agencies, never give up! Good luck and thanks for reading!

  20. Joan Haupt says

    Perhaps you can help. I am an over 50 attractive woman and many times I have been told there is smarket out there for woman like me I am petite Would love any venue from commercials to photographic work Where can I go to persue this I am originally from NY and live in Scottsdale Any help would be greatly appreciated ! My email is jh1interiordesign@yahoo.com

    Reply

  21. Chloe says

    That is a very imformative post! I love it! I have a question. I am Asian, Chinese. I am signing with an agency but I am wondering how is the market out there for Asian. I understand it is probably still a predominantly Caucasian industry. How often do you get jobs? I am thinking maybe I won’t be able to do this full time. I hope you can help. Thank you!! :)

    Reply

    • Diana Elizabeth says

      Hi Chloe, congratulations on signing with an agency. I would have a full-time job. Not sure what market you are in but I don’t know any full-time models unless they live in NYC and are walking the runway and have campaigns with high end designers (it can happen). All the actors and models I know in the Phoenix industry do this on the side, and even in the LA market, people have flexible jobs where they can audition but also need a full-time job for steady income. Have fun with it!

  22. Chloe says

    Thank you Diana for the reply! I am currently in Phoenix so I find your post very relevant. I have never done this before so I am brand new. It is terrifying to start since I don’t know anything about the industry, but you provided some really good information! I guess I will have to look for a flexible full time job as well. Hopefully there are actual demand for Asian so I could get some bookings.

    Reply

  23. Jen Palmer says

    Hi Diana, I have a 19 yr old granddaughter that is 5`9″. She is a very pretty girl. I feel she would be a great model. Would you be please let me know wherected we should begin, to see if it’s possible. Thank you so much.

    Reply

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